Fitting Advice for Artificial Grass
To fit your artificial grass you will need the following tools and materials, most of which we can supply for you.
- Spirit Level
- Stanley Knife
- Whacker Plate (recommended)
- Turf cutter (optional but would come in useful for larger areas anything over 40 square metres of lawn)
- Artificial Grass
- Weed Barrier
- 4" galvanised nails (1 nail for every 15cm of the perimeter)
- Treated wooden stakes and treated wooden perimeter
- Crushed stone (optional)
- Sharp sand
- Joining tape and glue gun (if joins required)
Fitting Advice in 60 Seconds
TOP TIP: Using a turf cutter, especially on large areas will help speed up the process
Put enough crushed stone down so that it very nearly fills the hole, remembering that the top of the wooden perimeter is the top of your base which will give you good visual guidance. Using the back of a rake, loosely level out the stone, you then need to compact the drainage base, the best tool for this is a whacker plate, this helps do the job quickly so is definitely worth considering using for larger areas, if you were to not use the whacker plate or a similar tool, you risk the base not being fully compact and this could cause your lawn to sink or move over time, so it really is beneficial to use one.
TOP TIP: If you already have good drainage then you could just lay sharp sand instead of the crushed stone as well, another method of compacting the ground is using wooden boards and then walking on them, but it is a lot more recommended to use a whacker plate
TOP TIP: This stage may not need to be done, if your base is already well compacted you can just lay the artificial grass over the crushed stone, but sharp sand does provide and extra level of drainage and also means that the base for the grass to sit on is completely smooth.
Just like real grass, artificial grass looks different depending on the way it is laid as the pile has a different direction. If you wanted to create real grass Stripes, you can lay the lawn in different directions for each stripe, if you don't want stripes it is important to lay joining grass with the same pile direction, you will know by just looking if you have done this or not, as one direction will have a silvering that you get on real grass and the other direction will be a darker green colour, make sure that before cutting you roll out the lawn first to check. Even if you don't have to join your grass you should lay it out first to see which effect your prefer as you may think the silvering effect is better or you may prefer the darker green, make sure you stretch the lawn to ensure that there are no ridges or bumps in it, the grass is easily cut with a sharp knife so this stage is rather simple.
Once the glue is applied or you have revealed the sticky tape, lay down the the first piece of lawn and walk along the join to secure it, then lay the second piece down and pull the grass so that it butts up with the first piece so that you are left with a non visible join, once your happy with the join, once again walk along it to secure it in place, you will have a few minutes before the glue sets so that you will have chance to adjust it if you need to. Once you are satisfied ruffle the grass up over the join to make sure that its not visible.
These instructions are based on you laying artificial grass onto soil, usually where there had already been a previous lawn. If you were wanting to lay over a balcony or roof terrace or any other surfaces that are hard, all you need to do is make sure the area is clean and tidy and free from any debris and then glue the grass to the surface using an adhesive.
If you wanted to lay artificial grass on to areas like decking it is advisable that you lay and then screw down marine ply on top of the decking, this then makes sure that the surface is flat and even to lay the grass on to.